Wez Jones, Owner of the HeartBreak Club Barbershop, shared his steps to creating a clean, classic side part pompadour with tapers.
Follow the ten steps below to re-create the look yourself.
- Spray hair down by applying a cutting aid like a foam tonic or grooming tonic and allow the hair to drop after combing to reveal natural movement and hair patterns.
- Section hair from recession zone to the back of the occipital bone. Proceed to create a foundation for the haircut by clipper over combing a connection zone at 90 degrees off the parting line. This will link the top hair to the sides, meaning everything under the line will be shorter or equal to the length of the line, and the hair on top will be directed to that point, therefore retaining length.
- Using a 1.5 guard with an open taper arm, clipper the hair up to the base line you’ve created, taking care that you don’t disturb the base line. If done correctly with the right amount of flick on the wrist, it should blend naturally in.
- To make this haircut more classic and sharp, I put in a higher taper line at the back using a trimmer, then blend upwards from an open blade to a 1. This will make the contrast between light and dark stronger and create a clean finish. Repeat the same process on the side burns to create a nice taper.
- To connect the top hair to the baseline, I take 1-1.5 inch sections diagonally across the head directing back to the original line we created. Once the hair does not reach, start on the other side and repeat.
- Once connected, I direct all the remaining hair on top into a profile line. From there I remove length from the front of the head to the crown to create a triangular section on top. Then, I cross-check the hair in landscape sections from the front to the back, removing anything that isn’t square to the head.
- I applied some STMNT Matte Paste as a pre blow-dry aid; this will help create a shape without the use of lots of product in the hair, giving me an indication of how the hair will sit when styled. I blow-dry using high speed, high heat and set in the front pompadour section with a cold shot. make sure to dry the parting first as this will control any loose hair.
- Finish the haircut by using texturising shears to refine the shape and weight on top, and use trimmers to sharpen the hairline.
- Using a fibre pomade, work at least a good fingers full into your hands, then apply firstly to the parting area and sides, then work from crown to quiff making sure every part of the hair is covered.
- Use an afro comb to dress the hair into place, making sure hair is combed from the root (meaning there are no hidden knots or bundles of hair) then using a wide toothed cutting comb, finesse the hair to the desired finish. At this point you can choose to spray hairspray to hold the shape.Looking for more online education with Modern Barber? Check out how to cut a medium fade with Tariq Howes.