We spoke to five experienced barbers about the challenges faced by clients with afro textured hair, exploring the consequences of an industry skills and how we can change our approach to hair education...
A new study by Ripe Hair & Beauty Insurance, which surveyed over two thousand UK residents on their experience with hairstylists and barbers in August 2023, revealed people with Afro textured hair pay more, travel further, and wait longer for salon appointments than other hair types. In recent years, the barbering industry has undergone a transformation, adapting to changing trends and customer demands, however one aspect that often remains overlooked is the need for improved education and skills when it comes to Afro textured hair.
Closing this gap is crucial for the evolution of the barbering profession. We spoke to leading Afro textured hair experts to discuss the steps that barbers, and the industry as a whole, can take.
Let's Talk Terminology
Anderson Boyce explains that different terminology can be used in different environments, such as a training academy versus on the shop floor; for the latter, he says he opts for the term Afro hair. Mark Maciver agrees, adding: “I don’t use descriptors like ‘coarse’ or ‘curly’ because those terms can be ambiguous. When you say ‘curly hair’ it can apply to both African and European hair types.Providing a Positive Experience
Looking Ahead
“Client dissatisfaction stems from the inadequacy of education and a lack of provision when it comes to diverse hair types, and these client experiences, while disappointing, highlight the need for improvement,” says Tariq. Reflecting on the current provision of training for Afro textured hair, Anderson tells us: “The training and education available is pretty non-existent, and where it does exist, it’s sub-standard.” Brian agrees, with the changes to the National Occupational Standards (NOS) only coming into force in 2021 there is still a long way to go: “In my experience, there is not sufficient education in Afro hair. I’ve found more information from platforms like YouTube, as opposed to in-person courses.” Expanding on the particular skills he believes education providers should focus on, Brian says: “They need to teach more about different products, combs, guards and clippers, for Afro hair.”
Meanwhile, Mark tells us that despite not having requisite teaching qualifications he has been approached by barbers looking to improve their education: “People have asked me to teach them about cutting Afro hair - I think that highlights that there aren’t enough teachers who specialise in Afro hair.” Mark suggests increasing resources in big cities such as London, Sheffield, Birmingham and Manchester, where there is a higher number of Afro textured hair clients.
Ultimately, empowering your clients to embrace their natural hair and providing them with the knowledge and tools to care for it will not only contribute to a positive experience but will also promote diversity in grooming and barbering standards.
