Modern Barber caught up with Giovanni Sponziello, who has over 60 years in the hair industry, to hear his thoughts about how trends come and go, and what the industry needs to do to continue to progress...
How did you get started in the industry?
Not happy with my college education, at 17 obtained an apprenticeship in ladies hairdressing and worked in a prestigious salon in the baroque city of Lecce in Puglia, Italy. There I gained valuable training and for a short period moved to Rome, and later in 1963 after having received a working permit, came to England. Here, under the umbrella of good managers and sharing work with good hairstylists, I progressed to become Top Hairstylist, a good manager and educator, a technical instructor and business administrator, which took me to various parts of the world.
My hairstyling work and hair creations often received professional recognition. Working for Steiner I often shared the technical/artistic stage with top professionals, became principal of training responsible for the overall high standards that Steiner had already set and later I was promoted to Senior Vice President of the franchising operation in California.
In 1985 I moved to Plymouth and here I built a well-respected hairdressing operation of 12 salons that meant an average of 2,000 clients per week.
In the year 2002 I did put away my hairdressing tools and retired from the profession, dedicating time to my family, to the garden, and venturing into new interests - today at the young age of 82 I still keep in close contact with hairdressing professionals, and for a few hours a week I enjoy styling men's hair in a local barbershop.
Can you tell us about the skills and techniques you were taught as an apprentice?
I was fortunate to be doing my apprenticeship in a salon where standards were very high; there I gained valuable experience by observing and practising the styling methods of the time – both in women’s and men's hair. In gents’ hairstyling there were no electric clippers – these were manually operated and the barber used multiple sizes of these, along with a sharp razor, to produce different grades, what we know today as skin fades. The razor was widely used not only to shave but also to add softness and a sculpted finish to certain hairstyles. All barbers wore white working gowns.
You moved to England in 1963 – can you tell us about this experience?
I arrived in England knowing only a few words of English. I dressed smart in suit and tie, I was ambitious, enthusiastic, I would listen, and I had a positive attitude to learning.
Meeting my first clients was always a challenge. I would check the hair first, paying attention to its natural colouring, the texture and its condition. I would also observe the client’s facial features, the neckline, their height, and the client’s general appearance, while listening very carefully to their wishes. Then, I would make a sketch of my recommended hairstyle.
There were no hydraulic chairs then so when I had to cut a geometric line, I would invite the client to stand up so that I could cut to eye level and personalise the hairstyle. When appropriate I always gave advice for additional colour; generally, this consisted of SFUMATURE (A sfumatura is to soften, to shade, to tone, to glow). In other words, add colour to complement the natural colour and further enhance the overlook. If the hairstyle required fuller movement, I would achieve this with a permanent body wave.
Let’s talk trends…
From a fashion/trend point of view, stylists of the past know well that hairstyles come, go and come back again – with variations of course.
According to recent surveys, skin fades are very popular with men right now. Barbers of yesterday produced the same styles years ago – no change here.
Over the years though there has been a dramatic change in trends from short back and sides to longer and more casual styles, with men also embracing colour and perming. Facial massage and lotions have recently risen in popularity, but this is a return to my apprenticeship days when hot towels and a facial massage was the norm.
What have you learnt throughout your career?
In this industry, the main objective will always remain the same: to satisfy your clients. Ensuring you achieve both quality and quantity are key to success. I also think it pays to be ambitious, enthusiastic, creative and technically prepared.
Having an open mind to ideas and to learning, to listen, and to never adopt an attitude of knowing it all, is also crucial.
How can the industry continue to develop?
Whatever qualifications or standards a person achieves, there is always the scope for specialist training. Shop owners need to show interest in each member of staff, their objectives, and their worries, in order to plan and invest in the further development of their skills.
Motivation, technical know-how, and professional maturity can encourage people to work hand-in-hand with manufacturers; taking advantage of their investments and knowledge can help achieve greater results.
At 82 I am still an apprentice and learning, and am still passionate about our industry. I have had many proud moments during my career, including presenting at shows and seminars, and travelling internationally. The profession has rewarded me well, and I hope that I have contributed in equal measure.
