Hair ageing can look different for everyone, influenced by factors such as ethnicity, hair type and environment, and is a topic that is discussed by clients and barbers alike. While some clients will be happy to let nature take its course when it comes to greying hair, that doesn’t mean they should let the health of their hair suffer, too – as ageing hair often brings changes such as hair loss, hair thinning and an increase in dryness. We spoke to experts in the industry to find out what happens to the hair and scalp as it ages, and what your barbershop clients should be doing in their haircare routines as they get older.
Men's Hair at Age 20-30
It’s generally said that hair is at its prime when someone is in their 20s, having just come out of their hormonal teenage state. Session stylist Christopher Laird, explains: “In your 20s, the cuticle is tight, and the hair shafts are thicker.” And as hair is at its prime, it’s important for clients to protect their hair from damage as much as possible during this period. “The roots and scalp tend to be oilier at this stage, so clients should use balancing treatments like clay masks,” recommends Christopher.
While women don’t start to see a slow decrease in hair diameter (resulting in thinner and slower growing hair) until their 40s, for men, hair begins to thin and decrease in growth at the average age of mid-twenties.
Men's Hair at Age 30-40
“It is extremely common that hair loses its colour and greys with age,” says Paul Windle, owner of Windle London. This is due to the hair follicles producing less melanin which causes grey hairs to form, which often begins in the 30s, however can differ with genetics.”
Men's Hair at Age 40-50
“Lipid changes can also be affected by age, which affects sebum production, shine and smoothness,” adds Paul. “The matrix cells can change which affects the lipid 18-MEA – what gives the cuticle its natural shine and hydrophobic barrier. The size of sebaceous glands within hair follicles begin to decline around the late 40s.”
Men's Hair at Age 50+
Paul stresses the importance in protecting ageing hair: “Ageing hair is more prone to damage as the hair diameter is thinner and the hair/follicle is missing some of the vital lipids,” he explains. “Grey hair is often more sensitive to damage through weathering (environmental damage) as it is more prone to UV damage and protein loss. It is important to avoid extensive heat or chemical damage in ageing hair as it will likely do more damage to clients in their 50s rather than those in their 20s.”
