The Burst Fade, sometimes called the Gentleman’s Mohawk or the South of France Haircut, is a variation of a fade haircut that curves around the ear and leaves length at the back—creating a circular, mohawk-inspired silhouette. This standout style was made famous by Usher and his longtime barber Curtis Smith, and remains a go-to for those with afro hair types. More recently, it’s also become popular with clients who have thicker hair textures, as Rhys Whitehouse, Wahl Ambassador, notes: “Thicker hair allows for a more striking result.”
Where Did the Burst Fade Come From?
While it gained popularity through celebrity influence, the burst fade has deeper roots in classic barbering techniques. Wez Jones, owner of Heartbreak Barber Club, explains the shape: “The style most commonly begins at the middle of the tip of the ear and fades in a circular motion, a bit like a sunset.” Execution, however, can vary by barber and client preference. Kevin Luchmun, International Artistic Team Lead for Andis, adds: “It involves blending and tapering the hair seamlessly from a shorter length on the sides and back to a longer length on top, but that being said, the burst fade can be done from a particular area.”
How to Cut a Burst Fade: Step-by-Step Advice
Before touching the clippers, it all starts with a client consultation. “You need to find out what the client wants done with the length on top and then figure out how high or low to take the fade,” says Kevin. “It’s always best to keep things slightly longer and that way you can always take things shorter if need be.” Charles Rose, owner of Crate, shares his cutting approach: “I would treat it like a taper, extending round the ear and leaving the back. I would use clippers and put a fade line with it dropping down right at the back, then I would work down my clipper guards to ensure we don’t take the fade too high.” Wez Jones elaborates on his process: “By creating a canvas for the fade, dependent on hair density, I would probably use a two guard, then create a starting point using a trimmer, before using an ascending fade technique to control the circular shape.”
What to Watch Out for When Cutting a Burst Fade
Because of the curved nature of this style, precision is everything. Charles advises: “Make sure to take your time on putting your fade line in and dropping it right behind the ear, as your client still wants hair at the back—hence why they are after a burst fade.” Kevin also stresses the importance of perspective: “Make sure you take a step back and have a look at the cut from a distance, so you can see the overall shape that you’ve created.”
Who Suits a Burst Fade Haircut?
The burst fade is ideal for:
- Afro hair types looking for shape and structure
- Thicker hair textures, where contrast and curvature shine
- Anyone wanting a modern, clean fade with edge
Its versatility means it works well with longer tops, curls, and even sharp design elements shaved into the side or back. Final Thoughts Whether you're a seasoned barber or a client looking for a bold, on-trend cut, the burst fade offers a stylish blend of precision and personality. Its curved shape, low drop at the back, and compatibility with textured hair make it one of today’s most in-demand looks.
Read next: The Top Barbering Trends of the Year
Lead image: Wahl
